PHOTOGRAPHY SAVES LIVES!
These tips are aimed at animal rescuers and volunteers who are not necessarily photographers themselves.
Although they were written with dogs in mind, most of them can easily be adapted to other pets.
WHY ARE GOOD SHELTER PHOTOS IMPORTANT?
Good photos definitively get more attention on the dogs. Some dogs I photographed were adopted (sometimes after 7 or 8 years waiting at the shelter) because someone fell in love based on one photograph.
Good photos make a shelter stand out: think of it in terms of marketing. Shelters operate in a very competitive market. Large cities can have tens of thousands of dogs available for adoption at any given time!
Good photos promote a better, more professional image of the shelter/rescue itself, which will lead to more adopters coming in, and more support from the community.
Good photos are more "shareable" on social media, which will lead to more followers and interest for the rescue.
From the photographer's perspective, photographing shelter pets is one of the most rewarding experience you can have. It keeps you on your toes creatively, it tests your skills and adaptability.
THE ABC OF TAKING SHELTER PICS
A: BE ASSERTIVE AND GET THEIR ATTENTION
When working with a shelter dog, remember to be gentle but assertive. What I mean by that, is that you should give the dog clear signals and directions on what you expect from them. Shelter dogs spend most of their time locked up, then they get pulled out for a photo-shoot. They are going to be tense, worried, puzzled, or very excited to see you.
Know your job, understand your model’s limits but be prepared to take charge. Give the dogs clear direction (sit + stay = get a treat), so they understand the “rule of the game”. Learn how to teach a dog how to sit if you don’t know yet (it’s all in the hand movement, the body language and the timing).
You need to get your model’s attention. They should look to you for cues, for rewards and fun, even if there is another person (like a handler) in the room. Make sure you are the source of treats, praise and attention. You can get the dog’s attention by using sounds and food, but not only (more on that later). Every dog will have different needs. Tune in with them.
During a shoot, I don’t necessarily try and bond with my models. I don’t think you need to create an intimate relationship with your models, to get a solid adoption portrait. I am loving and kind, and reassuring, but I also treat these shoots like professional settings.
For that reason, I try not to coddle the dogs, unless they really need it. Remember that dogs are adults. More often than not, it’s when we infantilize them, that we give them reasons to worry. I empower my models by giving them clear instructions.
Treat shelter shoots like jobs, which need to be done efficiently. You are using a lot of resources from the shelter: staff’s attention, space, time… I think it’s important to get the most done in the least amount of time and bother for the shelter, and make it quick and painless for the dogs.
Some numbers: I usually aim for 20-25 dogs per shoot, but when working in a high-intake shelter and having the help of 2 handlers, I can do 50 dogs in a day. In other situations, smaller rescues with more time, or very fearful dogs, I can slow down and spend more time with each dog. But I find it doesn’t really make a difference with how good / useful the portraits will end up being.
B: PAY ATTENTION TO THE BACKGROUND
Do not underestimate the importance of the background. A dog in a sad/filthy environment will look sad and filthy. A positive image sells a positive dog. Make sure there are no trash bins, tires, etc., behind your dog. Avoid fencing too if you can. Try to isolate the dog in front of a simple background, so the dog can be the focus. It can be as simple as a colorful wall, a bush of flowers. If you shoot indoors with light and studio equipment, consider using a backdrop, such as a vinyl backdrop (those can be washed and sanitized), seamless paper backdrops (available at photo stores), or any kind you can think of (even fabric). Once, in a pinch, I used butcher paper! Whatever your options, before you start photographing, make sure the background is as clean as possible, and does not have wrinkles and folds. If you know how to use Photoshop, clean up the background before sending the pics to the shelter, remove little stains and dirt the dog might have brought onto the set. It can be time-consuming, but it is worth it. A dirty photo will not appeal to adopters as much as a squeaky-clean image. If you aren’t comfortable with Photoshop or aren’t able to clean the set well enough, consider focusing on headshots to avoid the hassle altogether.
C: BRING A CALM ENERGY TO YOUR SET
If you are aiming for portraits similar to mine, make sure to keep a calm energy on your set. Welcome the dog with a warm, calm voice (baby voice is okay!) and try and match their energy. It’s much easier to set the tone from the start, than to have to bring a dog down from a place of high energy/excitement. As far as I’ve experienced, nothing ruins a shoot as much as an enthusiastic volunteer who riles the dog up right before they sit for their portrait (“Who’s excited for their pictures? Uh? Who’s excited? Are you excited?!!”). No, no, no. We want everyone to be calm and quiet. At least, that’s how I like to work. Consider letting the staff know ahead.
And perhaps excited dogs are more your jam! Especially if you work outdoor, with toys, off-leash, and are looking for more lively photos and videos of the dogs. Then it’s totally ok to be playful and excited with them!
I like to start with only my voice. Remember, these doggies spend their life locked in a very overwhelming environment. Perhaps think of your shoot as a quiet retreat for them, where they get to experience a different kind of interaction with humans. I start with whispers, little noises I make myself, speaking to the dog. No shouting, no waving things or treats under their noses. If that’s not enough, then I slowly amp up (and sometimes I do end up waving and making loud noises. Every dog is different). I use a little plastic squeaker (from inside a soft toy), which I hide in my hand. I find that it helps get the dog’s attention without having to wave a toy in their face. The dogs are curious and intrigued by the sound, not really knowing where it’s coming from. It helps keep them focused. If they don’t care about sounds, or if they need calming down and sitting in one place, then I use treats.
PRO TIP: Always check with the staff before using squeakers or food with each model. Some dogs can go nuts for them, or have guarding behaviors, or allergies, and it can ruin the opportunity for photos.
Don’t overdo it. I see too many people trying too hard, or suddenly everyone in the room is yelling and waving treats, shoving them in the dog’s face. It’s a big no for me. If the dog isn’t reacting to the squeaky immediately, or is turning away from the treat you are handing them, then stop and regroup, try something else, pull back. Don’t insist. Give the dog some space. Read their body language and adjust your strategy. It’s important to listen to them. Would you want to have food shoved in your face repeatedly if you were nervous before a meeting, and had already told the person you didn’t want to eat anything? Sometimes, starting from a completely quiet room, sitting the dog, waiting a few second and making a little sigh, is all you need to get the shot.
D: DROP DOWN TO THE DOG’S EYE LEVEL
Drop down and photograph from the dog’s eye level. That means you will be on your knees or belly a lot, but, hey, it’s for the love of the doggies! I feel like by photographing from a lower angle, we give the dogs a true opportunity to shine and to step into their own power. And I believe that really speaks to adopters.
I had a lot of back pain and used to feel all banged up after a shelter shoot. I find that sitting on a blanket/pillow during the shoot, and wearing knee-pads is a game changer. My husband got me a pair for Christmas one year, and I was like “yeahhhh… thanks, honey…” but it’s honestly been one of the best gifts someone has ever given me!
If the dog is small, consider placing him on top of something, a chair or table. Have a handler nearby to make sure the dog is safe.
If you don’t have a handler, and you are working outdoors with a dog in a run for example, dropping down can be super challenging. Taking a photo from above is cool too. There is nothing wrong with that. Ultimately, you want the dog to appear safe, friendly, loving.
E: EMBRACE WHAT YOU HAVE
Embrace your gear, skill level and the circumstances you are in. Make the best of what you have available. You may not have the best photo gear or the ideal environment, but that shouldn’t stop you from trying and making your dog model shine. The only limits are in your head. I’ve done shelter shoots behind a desk, between trash cans or in kitchenettes. Anything is possible!
Granted, some tools might make your life easier (a DSLR camera, learning to use flash, or Photoshop), and if you can, learn those skills too. But even if you don’t have the time or energy to learn those skills, or the money to invest in fancy gear, there is still plenty you can do with what you have.
PRO TIP: Phone cameras have become so, so good. It’s possible to get fantastic material these days with your phone. From photos to videos or GIFs, the possibilities are endless.
Check out the video of tips I created with Apple for the iPhone on the subject!
These photos were taken at a shelter using an iPhone:
F: FLAUNTING THAT BLACK FUR
Black pets are notoriously difficult to photograph. That is because black fur requires more light, and it can be difficult to capture the features of a black pet. Using flash is a good way to get around the problem. But using flash can be quite technical. Other photographers out there have created wonderful tutorials on the subject. I will not cover this here (though for info, all my shelter portraits are done with flash).
If you aren’t comfortable working with flash, then I would recommend finding a very well-lit area. This can be near a big window, or you could bring strong lights such as work lights in the room, and aim them toward the ceiling or a white wall (it’s called “bouncing” the light, so that it does not hit the pet directly). Even better, bring the pet outside and find a shaded area (to avoid strong light/shadows). You could use a large sheet of white paper or foil, which you place between the dog and yourself and aim toward your dog, to capture and bounce some of the ambient light directly onto the dog. This will help add more light to the portrait, but it’s a little technical/cumbersome.
If you are using your phone, it’s super easy to adjust the “exposure” of the image (on iPhone, just tap and hold the screen, until a small sun-shaped symbol appears with a slider and slide up or down to adjust the exposure). You can also retouch the images afterwards, using the Editing features of your phone, or special programs like Lightroom.
PRO TIP: I created a retouching tutorial for Lightroom, on how to make black pets shine, using their retouching app for mobile. Dogs with dark fur are hard to photograph. Often, their features get lost, making for dull portraits. Learn to bring details out from the dark fur (while preserving white fur), and make your dog shine!
G: GO FOR IT!
Be in the moment, try different angles and ideas, and don’t hesitate to over-shoot. At least at first. With experience, you’ll realize that often you get the shot within the first 30sec. But if a model is extra expressive or inspiring, keep shooting! It’s fun, and you might discover new ideas and angles you haven’t thought of before.
One of a photographer’s most important tasks is to select the right image to use, during the editing phase. My rule is to try and not overthink it. I browse through the photos I captured, and I pull the images that immediately speak to me. Sometimes, the dog’s eyes are closed, or the dog is looking away. Sometimes the photo is technically terrible, but the vibe is right. If I get an emotional reaction from the image, then I select it. Chances are, someone else (a potential adopter) will feel strongly about the image too. I try to select 3-5 images per dog, giving the shelter options: a mix of serious / mouth closed portraits, and “smiling” one, goofy ones, photos that show the dog giving paw or doing something funny or unexpected. Maybe a full body shot if I got one. Try and select images that give you that warm feeling and sense of whimsy!
H: GET THE HELP OF A HANDLER IF YOU CAN
I could not do the work I do without handlers! A good handler will make your job so much easier, and help you get better photos. It’s best if they know the dogs. That person can manage and hold the dog for you, take them out of their kennel and bring them to you, inform you of anything you should know about the dog (food guarding, etc). I also like to grab quick bio and story bits that I write in a notebook, right before we start shooting.
A handler will help you focus on taking the photos (always be ready to snap a photo! Sometimes a magical moment happens super quick). If your helper is holding the dog, that person should not become the focus of the dog’s attention: you should be the one making noises or waving a treat for the dog. Not the helper. If the dog is on a leash, the helper should make sure to remove tension from the leash, as much as possible, so that the dog doesn’t look restrained, out of control or strangled. A handler can also ensure the leash is hidden in the back of the dog. It will make for easier retouching if you use Photoshop to remove the leash afterwards. I do not recommend having more than one or two people with you in the room, as it makes for too much stimulation and distraction for the dog. Be nice to the people wanting to help, but be in control of your own set. You are in charge, and it’s ok to ask people to leave the room, if they are getting in the way of the job. I’ve certainly done it a few times!
A handler ensures the dog and the photographer are safe. Their main job is to handle the dog during the shoot, holding the leash, helping keep the dog in one spot. But there are other ways in which handlers are awesome:
I: POST THEM ON THE INTERNET!
Once your photos are ready, it’s time to share them! Don’t be shy! Try and turn the images around very quickly, because the shelter really needs them. I treat my shelter shoot like pro gigs (even though I don’t charge anything). I give the photos swiftly after the shoot. It’s also about creating a trust relationship with the shelter. Them granting you access and time with their animals, is an investment. It’s important to honor that. Make sure the shelter staff knows to update their website and social media with your photos, if they like them, and make the rules clear (do you want to be credited or tagged? That sort of things). Don’t push, but be present and don’t hesitate to follow-up if the photos have not been used after a week or two. Sometimes, these things fall between the cracks, or your contact doesn’t have the knowledge on how to update their website, and so on. It can easily become frustrating, but sadly it happens a lot, so be prepared to be persistent.
Make sure also to share the photos on your own social media platform! You never know who is watching. I started with getting one or two likes. I never thought I would ever get to the point of getting dogs adopted via my own social media channels, but slowly it started happening, and now it's quite frequent. And if anything else, it’s good to share your work with the world. It’s a good motivator to keep improving, and to keep shooting!